A Soulful Summer Escape to Ninh Binh
Under the scorching summer sun, my big family of ten and I set off on a soul-stirring journey to Ninh Binh — a land where nature and heritage embrace in timeless harmony. Nestled in northern Vietnam and now stretching into the provinces of Nam Dinh and Ha Nam, this UNESCO-listed mixed site has long been a favorite of ours, with previous visits scattered across seasons and memories. But this trip felt different. Deeper. More connected.
Land of Kings, Land of Legends
Ninh Binh is no ordinary destination — it’s the land of kings, of temples and tranquil waters, of dramatic karst formations and centuries-old stories. From the Phat Diem Cathedral and Tam Coc’s poetic boat rides, to Bai Dinh Pagoda, Trang An, Cuc Phuong National Park, Thien Ha Galaxy Cave, and mineral-rich springs like Ke Ga — the region offers a tapestry of cultural and natural wonders that feel untouched by time.
Our journey began in Tam Coc, where we pre-booked a lunch stop at Lotus Garden, a charming countryside restaurant hidden among age-old trees and fragrant lotus ponds. From our table, we could see wooden rowboats gliding gently along the Ngo Dong River, and cyclists meandering toward Thai Vi Temple, framed by blooming lotus flowers. The setting was idyllic — rustic yet soulful.
Lunch was a tribute to the local flavors: snakehead fish, goat meat, and rich, earthy soup — dishes that reflect the bounty of the land and the heart of the people. Every bite reminded us that in places like this, food is more than sustenance — it’s heritage.
A Pagoda in the Clouds
Our next stop was the Bich Dong Pagoda, a revered spiritual complex consisting of three pagodas — lower, middle, and upper — ingeniously built into a mountain and caves. As my father explained, it’s a unique architectural masterpiece: one part in a grotto, another under a natural rock roof, and the top pagoda offers breathtaking views of Tam Coc Valley. Famously featured in the film Indochine, the site now draws French travelers inspired by its cinematic allure.
Wandering through its moss-covered stone paths, I felt both humbled and enlightened. This wasn’t just a place of worship — it was a portal through which centuries of faith, art, and history flowed.
Back to Nature’s Rhythm
In the afternoon, we escaped into the serene embrace of Thung Nham Bird Garden, where the rhythm of nature silences the chaos of everyday life. Aboard a small sampan boat, we floated through mangroves and caves, encountering elegant cranes, shy herons, and playful magpie-robins in their untouched habitat. The air smelled of rain and leaves. The only music came from the trees and birds.
Later, we headed to the emerald wetlands of Van Long, a haven of mirrored skies and limestone cliffs. Here, we watched the golden light soften the mountains as we drifted through rippling waters — a perfect close to a day of wonder.
Retreat at Emeralda Resort
Our home base was Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh, a boutique hideaway that mirrors the architectural charm of northern Vietnam — tiled roofs, wooden beams, and lush gardens all around. With views of the karst mountains and serene rice fields, it was the perfect backdrop for connection and rest. My cousins and I adored the two swimming pools, and we explored the vast grounds by bicycle, soaking up the green serenity.
Dinner was a cozy affair at Chim To Dan, a nearby restaurant known for its local specialties. The staff were kind, the dishes comforting, and the night air carried the nostalgic sounds of countryside life — frogs, insects, and the gentle hum of rain. We swam again under the stars, laughing, talking, and savoring the peaceful rhythm of village life.
Slow Morning, Lasting Memories
Day Two was slow by design. We skipped the sights and opted instead for stillness — a rare luxury. After a leisurely breakfast and iced coffee, we snapped group photos and swam one final time, embracing every last second of this family retreat.
Before leaving, we visited the Dinh and Le Temples in Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Dai Viet in the 10th and 11th centuries. My father shared stories of King Dinh Bo Linh, who unified the nation after the fall of Ngo Quyen, built the stone citadel nestled in the karst landscape, and laid the foundation for Vietnam’s independence. He spoke with pride, tracing how the Great Wall of Vietnam and strategic river placement helped guard the fledgling kingdom.
The two temples — built in the 17th century on the original palace grounds — remain majestic. I was mesmerized by the dragon stone beds, turtle steles, intricate woodwork, and the iconic half-moon lake. The gate of King Dinh’s Temple faces away from the north, symbolically turning its back to former invaders. Every detail spoke of resilience, honor, and wisdom.
A Journey Within
We ended our visit reflecting on Ly Thai To, who in 1010 moved the capital to Thang Long (Hanoi), inspired by a dream of a rising dragon. The connection between past and present pulsed through my thoughts as we returned to modern-day Hanoi, hearts full of gratitude.
This trip was more than just sightseeing. It was a journey of identity — reconnecting with nature, honoring ancestors, sharing meals, and listening to stories that shaped a nation. My father even shared his dream of building cruise ships that sail along Vietnam’s coast, linking the ancient capital to the new — a floating tribute to our heritage.
Though the ride home took three long hours, I felt strangely energized. I now know the kind of joy that travel can bring — the kind that transforms. I’m soon entering Phan Dinh Phung High School, and for the first time, I see clearly what fuels my passions. Nature, culture, storytelling, and people — this is the path I wish to follow, the journey I want to continue.
🧳 Would I return to Ninh Binh?
In a heartbeat.
Because Ninh Binh doesn’t just stay in your camera roll — it lingers in your soul.
By Duc Minh
